In My Footsteps: Trip 8: New Bedford, Fairhaven, Mattapoisett

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 8: Fort Taber/Rodman – New Bedford, Mass.

Fort Phoenix – Fairhaven, Mass.

Ned’s Point Light – Mattapoisett, Mass.

January 22, 2010



Massachusetts being one of the thirteen original colonies is a state rich in history. Every town in the state has its own list of historical places to visit. There are so many places in fact that it is possible to visit any of Massachusetts towns several times and still miss some amazing historical places. There are three mentioned here today that are must see, but they are by no means the last I will seek out.

Located only a half hour from the Bourne Bridge, New Bedford is overflowing with historical places. Deep in the tradition of the sea the New Bedford Whaling Museum, established in 1907, is normally the first spot circled on any itinerary as well it should be. The cobblestone streets and old-time looking shops in the surrounding area make it feel as though you have traveled back to another time. After visiting the museum there are many other places just as rich in significance in New Bedford. One such place is located at the end of Rodney French Boulevard on Clarks Point along Buzzards Bay.

Fort Taber is a living breathing artifact. It is two buildings, an earthen fort and granite fort side by side along the breezy shores. The earthen fort(left) was built during the Civil War in 1861. It was built first as Governor John Andrew and Mayor Issac Taber could not wait for state or federal aid to help build the granite fort at the dawning of the Civil War.

The much larger, granite structure(right) next to the earthen fort was started shortly thereafter; the United States War Department stopped construction in 1871. It was locally finished in 1898 and named Fort Rodman after Civil War Lt. Col. Logan Rodman of New Bedford. The Clark’s Point Lighthouse, which once stood alongside the granite structure, was placed on the second tier of the fort and is easily visible today. Despite being two different buildings with two different names, the area is usually mistakenly simply called Fort Taber. The granite fort is kept under lock and key but the earthen fort can be entered, though beware as vandals have sprayed graffiti inside and littered as well. If you take a step back and close your eyes you can imagine the soldiers training on this spot more than a hundred years ago.

Only five miles north of Fort Taber is an even older piece of American history. Located along the water in Fairhaven, and within sight of Fort Taber is Fort Phoenix. This spot was built during the American Revolution in 1775. It was destroyed by British troops in 1778 but was rebuilt so quickly that it was given the name Fort Phoenix(right) after the mythical bird. In 1812 it was enlarged under the supervision of the future ‘Father of the Military Academy’ at West Point, Sylvanua Thayer. It helped repel an attack by the British HMS Nimrod in 1814. It remained in use during the Civil War with Union troops rotating between Fort Phoenix and Fort Taber. Though not used since 1876, Fort Phoenix still bears the look of an active military institution with five 19th century cannons perched facing over the waters of Buzzards Bay as if ready for an oncoming battle. The site is open year round and has a tremendous breakwater walk with a view of Palmer’s Island Light located on a small island in the middle of the harbor.

About seven miles east, in the small town of Mattapoisett, there is yet another piece of history. On the shore of Buzzards Bay, at the mouth of Mattapoisett’s harbor, sits Ned’s Point Lighthouse(left). It was built in 1838 at the urging of former President, and at that time Massachusetts Congressman, John Quincy Adams. It had been rushed and poorly built at first, needing several rounds of improvements up through 1888. The wooden light keeper’s house was loaded on a barge and floated across Buzzards Bay to Wing’s Neck Light in Bourne in 1923. Russell Eastman, the last keeper at Ned’s Point, rode in the house across the bay on the day. Decommissioned by the Coast Guard in 1952 the light became active again in 1961. The thirty-nine foot stone tower is open for a few hours Thursdays during July and August but the grounds are open all year long.

Massachusetts is filled with history that dates back nearly 400 years. It is impossible to visit any of the 351 cities and towns in the state and not find one if not several amazing historical landmarks. You don’t even have to enjoy history to appreciate these sites mentioned above. It is much different than studying a book when the places themselves are brimming with life as you stand before them. I recommend each of these places be visited but they don’t have to be all in one day! Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Fort Taber/Rodman: From I-195 West take Exit 15 into New Bedford. Follow John F Kennedy Memorial Highway until you need to bear right onto Rodney French Blvd. The Fort Taber/Rodman site is on the right at the end of the road.

Fort Phoenix: From I-195 West take Exit 18 into Fairhaven. Turn right to take Rt. 240 south. A little more than a mile turn right onto Bridge St. Bear right onto Rt. 6/Huttleston Ave. Turn left on Main St.; left onto Church St.; and right onto Fort St. Fort Phoenix is on the right as you approach the beach.

Ned’s Point Lighthouse: From I-195 West take Exit 19A. Turn right into Mattapoisett. Bear right onto North Street, follow for a mile and a half and turn left onto Water St. which becomes Beacon St. This road becomes Ned’s Point Rd. without any turns. Follow it to the park where the lighthouse is located.

References: Fort Taber/Rodman History

Fort Phoenix History Blog

Ned's Point Light Virtual Guide

New Bedford Whaling Museum

In My Footsteps: Trip 7: Cape Cod Canal - Mainland Side

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 7: Cape Cod Canal – Off-Cape Side

January 20, 2010


The Cape Cod Canal has too much to offer for one article to hold. This article deals with what lies across the bridges on the off-Cape side of the Canal. I decided to cross the Canal at the Bourne Bridge as it was closest to where I finished up on the Cape side. To cross the bridge follow Shore Road back to Trowbridge Road and round the rotary. The Bourne Bridge is nearly 1,000 feet longer than the Sagamore Bridge and sits 135-feet above the Canal.

Once across the bridge take the first exit off of the highway which remains Route 28. Follow it to the right and it will lead you through Buzzards Bay. After a few miles a left onto Canal Street will bring you face to face with the Railroad Bridge again. The Buzzards Bay Depot train station is a wonderful reminder of a simpler time. Dinner trains depart from this location Friday nights during the summer. Family supper trains depart on Monday evenings during the summer as well.

The next street over from the train station, Academy Drive, leads to the Massachusetts Maritime Academy. Established in 1891 it is the second oldest state maritime academy in the country. The campus is open to the public with visitor’s guides available at the campus or online. A 242-foot wind turbine sits on campus and is an imposing sight. On the way back down toward Route 28 on the left sits the Taylor Point Marina. A gas station for boats sits at the end of one of the docks complete with pumps and prices on top of said pumps. It was something I have not seen before.

Route 28 turns to the Route 6 Scenic Highway as you pass the Bourne Bridge and travel parallel to the Canal. On this mainland side of the Canal there are much better views. The overlook areas on the Cape side are far too small and come up on you much too quickly to really have a chance to stop and enjoy them. The mainland side sports two smaller rest areas and one larger spot complete with an information building. It is here that another hidden treasure of the Canal area is discovered.

The tiny village of Bournedale is home to a lovely herring run that travels underneath the highway and flows out into the Canal. In the spring the herring run is filled with the spawning fish, but taking of the fish is prohibited until further notice. It is look but don’t touch! The herring run leads to a surprising set of nature trails nestled in between the bustling Route 6 and Cape Cod Canal.

The Bournedale Hills trails take you through the woods and glacial boulders and lead you eventually to the Bourne Scenic Park at the feet of the bridge. Though the rushing of the highway traffic and the passing boats never fully fades there are points during this hilly hike that you will forget just what lies within a few hundred feet on either side. If you do not wish to take the full hike to the scenic park there are several opportunities to take stairs down to the bike path(right) which runs along the length of the Canal. This can be followed back to the parking area.

Route 6’s Scenic Highway ends up at the new Sagamore Flyover. Once congested by traffic thanks to a rotary at the foot of the Sagamore Bridge this section of roads is a much smoother ride. The area just to the east of the bridge has a few restaurants and lots of parking. It is a perfect spot to grab lunch after a long day of sightseeing.

For many this would end the trip along the Canal, but there is one more place that needs to be seen. The Scenic Highway if followed east becomes Scusset Beach Road. This will take you to the Cape Cod Bay end of the Canal and the long jetty that marks its end. Scusset Beach Road is about three miles long and leads you through a remote section of forest which makes up the Scussett Beach State Reservation. Here there are places to camp as well as the ending of the Canal bike path.

The jetty marking the end of the Canal is equipped with a breakwater light, red in color, which helps to guide ships safely into the Canal at night(right). There is a magnificent view of Plymouth and the giant white sandy cliffs running along the shore. Before leaving the Scusset Beach State Reservation there is one last place that must be seen and that is the Sagamore Hill Historic Site.

There is a parking lot directly across from the trails that are large enough for vehicles. The trail, about ¾ of a mile in length is easy to navigate and leads you up to a spot that was once a Native American meeting ground and later a World War II coastal fortification. The site possesses a great view of the homes along Sagamore and Scusset Beach as well as the White Cliffs in Plymouth(below).

After seeing one end of the Canal to the other from both sides it is still amazing to me that this waterway was totally man made and done in a time where technology was very primitive. That information makes the scope of this trip even more astonishing. So it doesn’t matter from which side you begin or end just start driving along this miracle of man; you will not be disappointed. Have fun and happy traveling!




Directions: Mass Maritime Academy: from Bourne Bridge take first exit. Turn right onto Rt. 28, follow it for a few miles. Turn left onto Academy Drive, Taylor Point Marina should be on your right as well.

Bournedale Hills Trails: Follow Rt. 28 east under Bourne Bridge, it becomes Scenic Highway. Continue on Scenic Highway for a few miles, the rest area where the trails are is designated by a sign. It is directly across from the Herring Run Motel.

Scusset Beach: Follow Scenic Highway east along Canal. Continue onto Meetinghouse Road, this will become Scusset Beach Road. Follow to the park and beach areas.

References: Sagamore Hill World War II Coastal Fortification
Mass Maritime History

Cape Cod Canal Recreation

Bourne on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 6: Cape Cod Canal - Cape Side

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 6: Cape Cod Canal – Cape Side
January 20, 2010



With so many destinations on the map when it comes to visiting Cape Cod, there are some very obvious ones that tend to get overlooked. One such place is seen by every single person who ever visits the Cape: the Cape Cod Canal. Stretching just over seventeen miles in length from Cape Cod Bay to Buzzards Bay and crossed by three bridges the Canal is a man made miracle that gets lost sometimes in the allure of the many beautiful beaches and shops of the Cape. This article is going to be all about the Canal and what there is to see along its shores. Being far too long it will be divided into an on Cape article and an off Cape article.

I began at the mouth of the Canal on the east side which empties into Cape Cod Bay. After a short walk across a very rocky beach I was lucky enough to arrive at the edge of the Canal just in time to watch a large ship from the Great Lakes area pass through and head out into the bay(left). At a maximum width of 540-feet the Canal sees over 20,000 ships pass through its waters annually.

Located a few hundred yards from the bay end of the Canal is a Power Plant owned and run by the Atlanta-based energy company, Mirant. A trail way leads from the mouth of the Canal back toward one of the visitor’s centers. Directly across from the visitor’s center is the Coast Guard station as they, along with many fishermen, operate out of the small harbor at the Sandwich Marina.
Route 6A is the best way to follow the Canal. There is a service road for authorized vehicles and bike trails running along either side of the waterway but most of the sights along the Canal can be driven to without a problem. Traveling along 6A, the first major sight is that of the Sagamore Bridge. Opened in 1935 and spanning 1,408 feet across the Canal, this bridge is the way to get onto the Cape from Boston and points north as it continues seamlessly from Route 3 to Route 6. The ‘Sagamore Flyover’ project, completed in 2006 replaced a rotary that caused traffic to become severely congested with an easier to navigate system of roads. 

Route 6A becomes Sandwich Road during its run along the Canal. Just before the Bourne Bridge rotary comes into sight Sandwich Road bears right. Follow this road and you will find yourself stepping into a hidden piece of Cape Cod, and United States history. Sandwich Road travels along a more secluded section of the Canal, passing directly under the Bourne Bridge(right). Unlike with the Sagamore Bridge there is a designated recreation area next to the bridge allowing visitors to park. People can get out and walk along the Canal while listening to the rush of highway traffic passing overhead. It is a soothing sort of hum. There are active railroad tracks which also pass along the Canal and they should be watched in case of trains. The bike path can be used to walk on and on warmer days it is highly recommended and highly populated by bicyclists, runners, and skaters.
Sandwich Road continues and it is along here that the visit to the Canal takes on a more historic twist. After passing by the Jonathan Bourne Library a right hand turn down Perry Avenue will lead you to the Aptucxet Trading Post museum. Built in 1627 it was the first trading post used by the fledgling Plymouth Colony. The building that stands is a replica of the original, but the museum houses excavated pieces of the nearly 400-year old building inside. Not to be missed as well sitting less than a hundred feet from the Aptucxet Trading Post museum is the Gray Gables railroad station. It was created for President Grover Cleveland whose summer home in Bourne was named Gray Gables. The building was moved to the Aptucxet grounds in 1976.

Aptucxet Road leads to Shore Road via a surprisingly beautifully painted overpass. Turn right and follow Shore Road to Bell Road and the third and final bridge along the Canal. The railroad bridge, built in 1935 and crossing the Canal near Buzzards Bay, was the largest vertical lift bridge in history when it was originally built. It is still right up there today. When raised it has a clearance of 135-feet. Near the Buzzards Bay end of the Canal sits a small cove where on this day hundreds upon hundreds of ducks and other water fowl congregated. No trains passed during my stop here but watching the railroad bridge(below) move is a spectacular sight to see.

Not to be lost in all of the sights and activities along the Cape side of the Canal is the fact that the entire waterway was man made. It is amazing to think of how technology was different when the project began nearly one hundred years ago. That information makes the whole scope of the trip even more remarkable. Stay tuned for the second part of this article focusing on the off-Cape side of the Canal. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Cape Cod Bay end of the Canal: On Cape, take Rt. 6A into Sandwich, take a right onto Tupper Rd. to Town Neck Rd. Off Cape, take Exit 1C after crossing Sagamore Bridge, turn right onto Sandwich Road. Follow it just over a mile and take a left onto Tupper Rd.
Bourne Recreation Area: Follow Sandwich Rd. west along Canal. Bear right before Bourne rotary. Recreation area is right turn at foot of bridge.

Aptucxet Trading Post & Gray Gables: Follow Sandwich Rd. west along Canal, bear right before Bourne rotary, follow Sandwich Rd. into Bourne. Turn right onto Perry Ave., a quick left onto Aptucxet Road. The grounds are designated by a windmill and sign.

Railroad Bridge: Follow Sandwich Rd., turn right onto Shore Rd. Right turn onto Bell Rd. less than 1 mile away. Follow it to the Canal.

References: Bourne Historical Society

                     Cape Cod Canal Chamber of Commerce

Sagamore Beach on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 5: Sandy Neck Trails, Sandwich, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 5: Sandy Neck Trails, Sandwich, Massachusetts

January 11, 2010

            Sandy Neck Beach in Sandwich is very well known to anyone who lives on, or has visited Cape Cod.  It has miles of golden sand and acres of majestic dunes that stretch out seemingly to the horizon.  Most people who visit Sandy Neck drive into the parking lot and walk to the beach, the normal routine for any local or vacationer.  What they may not know is that nearby are some amazing trails that will lead you right out into those majestic dunes.  It gives you a view unlike almost anything Cape Cod has to offer.

            Located directly across from the ranger station on Sandy Neck Road is a sign for these trails(right).  It tells you the distances to each trail; the furthest distance for a trail listed is five and a half miles.  Not listed is the sixth trail.  To reach it simply take Trail 1 which is a short walk out to the beach, then follow the beach all the way out.  This walk is more than six miles in length one way and leads you to a strip of seaside homes and a lighthouse which face Barnstable Harbor.  This entrance is for walking, but be aware that there is also an entrance for driving out on these trails.  In winter the trails were virtually deserted, but in summer they will probably be a little busier.  Also if preparing to hike the trail out to the lighthouse remember that it is over six miles one way and that walking through the dunes and soft sand will take considerably longer than walking normal ground or pavement.

            Hopefully that does not deter you as the hike through the Sandy Neck Trails sports some amazing natural beauty and a few pieces of history as well.  The first few miles of the trails are bordered on the right by a marsh complete with several small birdhouses near the beginning of the trails and an osprey nest situated on top of a pole out in the marsh. 

            Once you get past the exit of Trail 1 you will get into the smaller dunes that lie along the side of the marsh.  On the left you will start to see the larger dunes that Sandy Neck is known for but stick with the main marsh trail longer and you will get a better view of them.  Keep walking along the marsh trail and you will notice the first of many small cottages, most of them a hundred years old, dotting the land(left).  These are great reminders of what Sandy Neck was like in the early 20^th Century as part of the fishing and whaling industry.  They are usually occupied in the summer so be courteous of their property.  

            For the most part, up to Trail 2 the land is uniform, mainly beach sand.  The majestic dunes are in plain sight the entire time.  However once you pass Trail 2 and a small guard shack located just off of the trail, the land begins to change a bit.  There are still mountainous dunes but trees become more abundant as do the fishing cottages.  Trail 3 has been closed so if you are looking for access to the beach take Trail 2 or continue on to Trail 4.  

            Trail 4 will lead you through the dunes and spotty trees and vegetation to the beach and sports a tremendous view.  Also in this area are trails designated for horseback riding, but they are obviously fine for human use as well.  This trail takes you winding through the trees, if not for the constant hum of the ocean waves you might forget that a beach lay close by.  There are many tiny ponds scattered throughout this area, swimming in them is probably not possible or recommended. 

            Also out in this area of the Sandy Neck land is where you will find a large number of animals.  Many species of birds such as hawks and osprey will glide by.  On the ground the most common animals spotted are squirrels but raccoons and skunks roam the area as well.  On my trip here I spotted a large white tailed buck(left), not saying that you will see one, but they are out there.  

            The marsh trail weaves its way through the trees as Trail 5 and will take you out to the beach.  It is here that you may go left and head back to the parking lot, or continue onto Trail 6 and the tip of Sandy Neck.  It is a long walk but the views are incredible.  The cottages, the marsh, the dunes(right), the trees, ponds, trails, and lighthouse all make for an amazing hike. 

I will admit that this hike would probably be more appreciated in the warmer months.  I walked twelve miles in a little over four hours and enjoyed every moment.  If you have the capabilities I would recommend driving the trails if the thought of walking more than twelve miles does not thrill you.  Otherwise, pack some snacks, water, and some comfortable shoes and enjoy the natural beauty as only Cape Cod can provide.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  On the Mid-Cape highway take Exit 5 to Route 149.  Follow it to Route 6A and turn left.  Sandy Neck Road is the first right after the sign welcoming you to Sandwich.  The parking area for the trails is on the left across from the ranger station.

References: 4 Wheeling Sandy Neck

Sandwich on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 4: Long Pasture, Cummaquid, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 4: Long Pasture, Cummaquid, Massachusetts

January 17, 2010



Like a hidden jewel, Long Pasture is tough to find for novice travelers. Located down narrow Bone Hill Road off of Route 6A in Cummaquid, Long Pasture is well worth the trip off the beaten path. Sometimes it is hard to believe that there are such beautifully secluded spots so close by while shopping at the Cape Cod Mall in Hyannis, but they are everywhere. Located about a half mile west of the Cummaquid Golf Club along historic Route 6A, Bone Hill Road comes up suddenly around a corner on the right. A white sign for the Harbor Point Restaurant is the marker for the road; pass by it and you will have to find a place to turn around.

Long Pasture itself is easy to find after turning down Bone Hill Road. It is designated by a small, rocky parking lot on the left side at the first turn of the narrow road. The pathway through the 110-acre wildlife sanctuary is clearly marked and simple to follow. It is filled with trees and flowers and a couple of small ponds(left).

A few hundred feet into the wooded area there is a small open barn with temporary pens. This area is part of a cooperative effort between the Massachusetts Audubon Society and Ocean Song Farm to attempt something called ‘Management Intensive Grazing.’ The farm’s pigs, goats, sheep, and turkeys are there to feed on the vegetation at Long Pasture which is not treated by any pesticides. The animals are great to look at but be careful though as the fences are electrified.

The pathway continues, coming close enough to nearby Stoney Point Road that the houses can be seen through the trees. Eventually the pathway leads to several spectacular views across Barnstable Harbor. There is a row of seaside homes and a lighthouse located several miles out on the outskirts of Sandy Neck Beach(right).

This area is viewable from above at a scenic overlook, but can also be seen from the shoreline. A short walk leads to a clearing and a path down to the water. The water is also accessible at a small sandy parking lot located at the end of Bone Hill Road. There are a couple of different routes that can be taken at Long Pasture.

Also located at the end of Bone Hill Road is the Long Pasture Wildlife Sanctuary nature center(right). Part of the Massachusetts Audubon Society, the nature center is open year round and can be appreciated at any time of day during any time of year. After visiting the nature center the return to the parking area at the beginning of Long Pasture can be taken either by going back the way you came through the paths, or by taking the pathway which runs along Bone Hill Road itself.

Separated from the road by a short rock wall, the hike back along Bone Hill Road is nearly as quiet and peaceful as the wooded pathway. The road is not very busy even in the summer months, this allows the birds songs to be heard all around you. The hike does not end there though. On the left side of Bone Hill Road, just after the intersection with Harbor Point Road, there are a few perfectly manicured meadows to be walked. In the summer the meadow grasses grow high and the paths become hidden from the roads. In the cooler months the meadows are wide open and easily navigated.

The toughest part of hiking at Long pasture is finding Bone Hill Road. Once that is accomplished all that is left is to enjoy another in a line of beautiful conservation areas. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: from the Mid-Cape highway take Exit 7 to Willow Street. Follow Willow Street to Route 6A. Turn left and drive for one mile. Turn right onto Bone Hill Road, remember it is narrow and comes up fast. Long Pasture is located on the left at the first curve.

References: Massachusetts Audubon Society - Long Pasture

                    Management Intensive Grazing at Long Pasture

In My Footsteps: Trip 3: Dennis, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 3: Dennis, Massachusetts

January 16, 2010


Located in the Mid-Cape area, Dennis has many well known attractions. The beaches are famous: West Dennis, Corporation, and Chapin to name a few. There are numerous historical landmarks including Scargo Tower. As in my other travel blogs I am trying to find places not as easily found on any vacation guide.

The journey begins quite aptly on historic Route 6A. Also known as Old King’s Highway, Route 6A was the most used roadway on Cape Cod before Route 28 and the Mid-Cape highway came around. Thought to have begun as an Indian trail from Plymouth to Provincetown, it became part of Plymouth’s ‘King’s Highway’ in the late 17th Century.

A drive along this road is a rich tapestry of historical homes and monuments. So protective of the history on Route 6A is the Cape that even changing the color of ones home is subject for intense debate at town meetings. This road in and of itself is a worthwhile adventure, complete with large oak trees hovering over the road and old horse hitching posts located just off of the sidewalk.

One of the first places to see is a spot that is technically in neighboring Yarmouth by about 1,000 feet. That would be Bray Farm(right). Established in 1639, this small farm is open to the public year round. Even on a sunny January day like today one can park and walk the grounds and see the animals roaming. From the requisite sheep, goats, and chickens, to donkeys, bees, and the oddly beautiful Scottish cattle, Bray Farm will thrill children and adults alike. The owners are very friendly and will gladly answer any questions you may have. There is even a boardwalk along the back end of the property with a spectacular view facing toward Grey’s Beach in Yarmouth.

A little further down Route 6A, just across the street from Osprey Lane is another piece of Cape Cod history. Through a natural tunnel of trees sits the burial ground of the Nobscussett tribe of Indians which lived in Dennis hundreds of years ago(left). The grounds are fenced in and marked by a stone stating that the chief of the tribe was named ‘Mashantampaine.’ Also the site holds a great view of Scargo Lake at the back end of the burial ground, but there are many other spots with better access to the lake.

One of those spots is a conservation area in close proximity to Scargo Tower, named Scargo Park. The tower and park are named for the legendary Nobscussett Indian Princess Scargo who was so beautiful that legend has it other Indian warriors would come from all parts of Cape Cod just to see her and bring gifts to help sustain her people.

Dennis, like much of Cape Cod, has numerous conservation areas great for hiking and animal watching. Scargo Park is a hidden gem down a windy dirt road just off of Scargo Hill Road. With an elevated view of Scargo Lake, along with swings for children and a sheltered picnic area, this conservation area is a worthwhile stop for any visitor.

Old Bass River Road, another historical drive, leads you to another great conservation area called Indian Lands. Located next to the Dennis Town Offices, the Indian Lands conservation area is actually closer to three areas in one. There is a set of paths which lead down toward Bass River with a great view of the Highbank Bridge. The master path runs along the power lines and is a tougher hike with soft sand and stones mixed together. The other pathway is a set of defunct railroad tracks(left) almost totally overgrown with small trees and plants. Follow these and you will come to a bridge crossing over Bass River with a view of the rushing highway traffic rushing by on the right.

Not to be missed in the same parking area as the Indian Lands and the Dennis Town Offices is another piece of history. Called either Old South Dennis Cemetery or Dennis Ancient Cemetery(right), it lies behind the Town Offices in a fenced in area but is accessible. The graves contain some of the last names most associated with Cape Cod. Names like Baker, Bangs, and Nickerson fill many of the plots.

There is nothing against all of the great beaches and other historical sites that Dennis has to offer. They should all be visited as well. Once those have all been seen, or if you are trying to see the Cape Cod that locals know, check out the places mentioned above. You won’t be disappointed. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Bray Farm: from Rt. 6A turn on Bray Farm Road and follow it to the end.

Nobscussett Indian Burial Grounds: from Rt. 6A, turn left on Osprey Lane, located less than ½ mi. east of the Red Pheasant Inn. Grounds are directly across the street, but parking is difficult, may be better off walking to this spot from elsewhere.

Scargo Park: from Rt. 6A, turn onto Old Bass River Road. Take left onto Scargo Hill Road. Scargo Tower is designated by a big sign; Scargo Park is the second left after the tower.

Dennis Town Offices: from Rt. 6A, turn onto Old Bass River Road, follow it approximately four miles. The town offices are designated by a green sign on the right side. There is access to both the Indian Trails and the Dennis Ancient Cemetery from the parking lot.

References: Cape Cod Gravestones

The Legend of Princess Scargo

Cape Cod Commission - History of Rt. 6A

South Dennis on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 2: Truro, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 2: Truro, Massachusetts
January 14, 2010

     It may be one of the smallest towns on Cape Cod, but Truro stacks up against any of the others when it comes to natural beauty and historical attractions. Located only thirty-eight miles from Hyannis, the commercial epicenter of Cape Cod, the tiny town of Truro seems to be the closest to how Cape Cod must have appeared when the first Pilgrims set foot on it nearly 400 years ago. Probably known to some simply as the gateway to Provincetown, Truro is relatively unknown to the average traveler. For anybody seeking a real taste of the unchanged natural beauty of Old Cape Cod, take an afternoon or a whole day and drive up to Truro.

Once you get past Wellfleet Center on Route 6, the Cape’s main highway, you will begin to notice just wide open the Outer Cape really is. Established in 1709, Truro is home to many beautiful beaches both on the eastern, Atlantic Ocean, side and the western, Cape Cod Bay, side. The first stop was Ryder Beach(right), a nicely secluded stretch of beach nestled ten minutes from Route 6 on the bay side. Taking a right onto Prince Valley Road will get you there. Though there are several lavish homes in the area surrounding the parking lot, Ryder Beach has a very cozy feel. Perhaps it is due to the fact that it is tucked away down several rural roads and is therefore not easily found. There is extensive erosion control going on at Ryder Beach so be aware of the signs. Otherwise, enjoy the breathtaking views. On a clear day you can see the shoreline from nearby Provincetown all the way out across Cape Cod Bay toward Plymouth and the South Shore.

After leaving Ryder Beach the next area I visited was Pamet Harbor, the birthplace of the American Whaling industry. Named for the tribe of Indians that inhabited the land there was barely a boat to be found in Pamet Harbor during the dead of winter, although the harbor was bustling with activity. At the mouth of the Pamet River a jetty heavily damaged by a recent storm was being rebuilt. The sounds of gigantic boulders being carried and deposited only a few hundred yards away echoed throughout the clear, calm January air. Truro’s harbor houses some amazing scenery which would be appreciated more in the warmer months. Also the Pamet Harbor Yacht & Tennis Club, located adjacent to the harbor, should be visited during a trip to Truro as well.

Next up was another out of the way beach, Ballston Beach. A quick journey across Route 6 via an underpass to the ocean side of Truro leads you to yet another beautiful scenic view. Situated near the end of North Pamet Road, Ballston Beach itself is small; the sandy pathway to the beach was off limits due to an open trench caused by a recent storm. Slightly to the north sit a pair of homes sitting majestically atop a pair of high hills. On this particular day, where the snow was still covering most of the ground, the hills looked like mountains ripe for skiing or sledding(left).

Back across Route 6 sits Corn Hill and Corn Hill Beach. Corn Hill Beach(right), conveniently located on Corn Hill Road, runs out to the mouth of the Pamet River which contains a different view of Pamet Harbor. If an overnight stay is desired the Roseville at Corn Hill cottages are located directly across the street from the beach. With all of the amazing views nearby it is almost recommended. Corn Hill’s name is taken from a group of sixteen pilgrims, led by Miles Standish, who discovered the precious Indian corn on that spot in 1620. Also of note, Ralph Barnaby became the first to exceed Orville Wright’s American record for motorless flight at Corn Hill. In 1929 Barnaby flew for 15 minutes, 8 seconds, breaking the Wright record of 9 minutes, 45 seconds set in 1911. Markers on the edge of the parking lot at Corn Hill Beach designate these events. Following Corn Hill Road to the top leads to a scenic overlook of not only the coastline, but also a marshy area below inhabited by blue herons.

Before leaving Truro, I had to see the most popular attraction, that being Cape Cod Highland Light. Highland Light(left), which is surrounded by the Highland Links Golf Course, is the oldest lighthouse on Cape Cod; the current tower was finished in 1857. It was moved back 453 feet from the eroding cliffs in 1996 to save it from possible collapse. Looking to the south one can see several structures which lay on the grounds of the defunct North Truro Air Force Station. Though it is no longer operational, it is considered government property and therefore cannot be explored. The lighthouse, however, can be climbed from mid-May to mid-October.

After visiting Truro it amazes me that more people have not discovered this scenic jewel of Cape Cod. Take my advice and make it a point to visit not just the places noted here, but others such as Pilgrim Heights that I did not have the time to see. Have fun and happy traveling!


Directions: Ryder Beach: From Rt. 6, left onto Prince Valley Rd. Drive until meeting Old Colony Road, turn right. Left onto Ryder Beach Road, follow to the beach lot.
Pamet Harbor: From Rt. 6, left onto South Pamet Road, turn left at Truro Center Road. Take a slight right onto Depot Road; follow it to the harbor parking lot.
Ballston Beach: From Rt. 6, right onto North Pamet Road, take a quick left onto South Pamet Road, follow it to the end.
Corn Hill: From Rt. 6, left onto Castle Road which turns into Castle Hill Road. Follow it; this will become Corn Hill Road. Beach and overlook are on it.
Cape Cod Highland Light: From Rt. 6 take right onto Highland Road exit. A large sign designates this exit. Follow the signs to the lighthouse.

References: Cape Cod Highland Light
Truro Chamber of Commerce

Truro on Dwellable